Seven intrepid diggers set out form the Marong Hotel for the official
Bendigo Bonsai Club Dig Day.

It was intended to be a low key day searching for a few trees along the back
roads on that side of Bendigo.

The morning was freezing cold but the sun was shining and in the end the
weather could not have been better – it was perfect.

We started along the creek among the red gum trees and olives and everyone
ended up digging as many olives, hawthorns and a few plums as they wanted.

Next stop was a little tricky, with a single lane bridge, narrow road and no
where to park.

A nice chap in a brand new Peugeot and Hi-Viz vest drove up soon after we
arrived.  It turned out he was inspecting the bridge, and although we had a
friendly conversation about cleaning up the weeds along the creek, I figure
he did not trust us as he took down all the number plates of the cars.  We
did not know what sort of authority he wielded in the world of government
agencies, but we figured that the only thing he had on us was as potential
terrorists plotting to blow up the bridge.  Given that we looked wet, tired,
and loaded down with botanic specimens, I suspect that we should be OK.

It was worth coming under suspicion from the anti-terrorist government
agencies as the digging was excellent.  Tim, Gail, Scott and Maureen in
particular carried out some great potential bonsai trees.  Species included
wild pears, plums and hawthorns.

Next stop was a reserve out the back of Shellbourne for a quick dig for some
plums and quinces.  After that we had a quick stop for a cup of tea and BBQ
at Johns house then we all rushed off.  We were pretty tired by that stage
and Gail summed up the feelings of the team when she said she was just
looking forward to a nice hot bath.  John.

The main reasons for defoliation- Defoliation brings energy back into the trunk of the tree. Keep control of the tree structure.
Tree branch structure- new set of leaves. Maintain light into the tree. Each branch and the inner shoots need
light to be healthy.
Used to reduce foliage size. Partial defoliation useful when making more foliage pads. Total needed to clean the
tree up. Opens the branches up and helps with branch placement.
Defoliation helps remove bugs as well.
Suitable for broad leaf deciduous trees, can be used for non deciduous, not for conifers. The technique is
suitable for English Elm, Plums, Desert Ash. David has had good results with these species.
A totally defoliated Desert Ash can re-grow in 3 weeks. Choose the branches you want to grow and remove
unwanted ones, which are wasted energy. Remove the armpit growth. Cut off or rub off with fingers.
Only concentrate on growth on the desired branches. The new leader on his tree needs to get thicker yet. He
will cut back when desired thickness reached to grow a new top.
Wire cuts in quickly after 3 weeks. Lots of growth at present.
By continually defoliating, you can see the tree structure better. The tree needs to be healthy and strong to do
this. The amount of growth indicates health. DO NOT defoliate if the tree is not healthy. Wait until it is.
Need lots of fertilizer. Use liquid Seasol, Charlie Carp once per month.
Overfeed you get too much growth, too much leaf, and leaf may increase in size. Fertilize after giving water so
tree well saturated.
David talked about the Plum in the blue bucket. Lots of upword growth. Cut away up growth or wire down. Take
off if don’t need the branch. David picks out with fingers by sliding his hand along the branch to remove leaves.
Don’t do this with a Hawthorn or anything else with thorns. The leaves can be cut away. Be careful not to
damage the new buds. The tree should have leaf growth along the branch, not just on the ends. Cut between the
petiole and leaf. The petiole will dry and drop off.
Remove upward strong branches on a downward branch you want to keep. Rewire small branches in a downward
direction to create nicely shaped foliage pad. 20-30 branches can be wired into a single pad.
Plum, Ash and Elm trees work fast. Need to defoliate and wire regularly to control shape. Can defoliate 3-4
times per growing season.

SELECTION OF NURSERY STOCK FOR BONSAI – SEEING THE TREE WITHIN

We All love to browse the nurseries in search of the elusive ideal stock tree for bonsai, it gets even more exciting when you actually find one.  But have you actually found a pre-bonsai or have you purchased just another pot plant?  I would like to point out here, what to look for and what to reject when looking at any tree as a prospective candidate to becoming a future bonsai.  I have seen trees presented at meetings and workshops where they vary from the $10 “where did you get that – have they got any more?” to the $50 “why did you choose this?”, and it is embarrassing to have to tell people that their new found “gem” may never make it to bonsai status.  Let’s have a look at how to avoid the traps of selecting trees for bonsai, we can all read a bonsai book from the library where most of them will show the 6 basic styles of bonsai and some variations, I won’t go into these here because it is covered in many books, you may need to brush up on some reading if you are unsure of what they are, as these become the basis of your tree selections.

When looking at trees, give them the once over, don’t be shy, pick the tree up if you can lift it, and view it at your level, look at the basic structure of the roots, the trunk and the branches .  Does the tree have roots radiating out from all around the trunk? – dig your fingers down into the soil and feel the roots, do the roots blend into the trunk nicely with some flare and taper?  Does the trunk have any shape, flare or movement to it?  Does the tree have suitably placed branches up the trunk, or can you grow some new branches to suit the style you can visualize?  Tilt the tree on different angles and try to look at what style may suit it best.   Some trees are already set in their structure and can be easily seen, others may take a bit more time to work out.  Lots of nursery trees and plants are unsuitable for a bonsai, if you are sure you can see a bonsai within the pot plant, then you have a positive selection.  If you cannot see a bonsai within, then you need to ask yourself why you are buying the plant, it may be because you desire one of that species and can’t find anything better.  Don’t buy that leptosperum just because you wanted a leptosperum, buy it because you know it has the potential to be a nice bonsai.  An upright, thin, straight plant will usually always be just that, however, you may have a vision of what you can make the plant do to grow it and shape it as a bonsai, just be aware that when presenting a plant like this to a demonstrator or instructor, that he may tell you that the plant needs to be put into the garden bed for a few years to create some bonsai features within the plant.  Size doesn’t matter, the selected plant does not have to be large, I have found some wonderful little trees with instant bonsai potential and created a bonsai on 6 or 8 cm in height.  Obviously, the better the structure a plant has, then the better chance it has of becoming a nice bonsai, or the better chance of a tutor at a workshop congratulating you on your pre-bonsai selection, along with his enthusiasm to work the tree with you.

IMAGINATION – The art of seeing a tree in its future, look at the tree within, build the tree in your mind, blank out the branches in your mind that aren’t needed, think about the shape of the foliage pads you would like, can you see the tree?  Sadly, some people cannot and I am unsure of how to instill the insight of a future bonsai in their mind.  I can only take them through the process step by step, showing them the wonder and beauty of each structural aspect and showing them that the refinement of a show worthy tree will come later as their skill level increases.  Imagine the trees that you look at in parks and gardens, in the fields and off the side of the roads, do you manage to see the structure of these trees, do you ask yourself “why does that tree look good to me?”.  You do look at trees in their natural settings, don’t you?  Look at trees in nature and then look at the plant you are holding, can you see the tree?  If you can’t then think carefully about spending your hard earned money on just another plant.

Remember the basics, the plant you choose will need to have some points of merit.  Root spread and distribution (nebari), trunk taper, shape or movement, branch structure and placement.  The foliage pads can come later.

I have purchased a multitude of plants over the years that did not meet my expectations, but I did learn a lot by experience from making a lot of mistakes with these plants, so maybe in the end we all need some experience.  I hope that these notes may help some of you through your next exciting and successful nursery tour.

 

David Allen 15/05/2011

These notes can provide no more than a very brief outline of bonsai care, but may be of some help to those who have perhaps just purchased their first bonsai, or are still at the beginner level, or are just curious to know a little more about bonsai. There are many excellent books available which will provide information and advice in much more detail, but there is no substitute for the hands on experience which can be obtained by joining a bonsai group, and attending meetings, demonstrations and workshops.
The art of growing miniature trees in pots originated in China, where they are known as penjing. The inspiration for this was observation of naturally stunted trees growing in exposed places such as cliffs in the mountains and river gorges, or on sea cliffs, and it seems that the first penjing were specimens collected from the wild from such places. In time it was realized that it was possible to train trees confined in pots to look like these naturally stunted trees. The art of growing miniature trees reached Japan many hundreds of years ago, and developed on somewhat different lines, under the name of bonsai, which means “tree in a tray”.

Bonsai range in size from mini bonsai (mame) which grow in small, dainty pots which can easily be held in the palm of a hand, through small to medium size bonsai (the vast majority), up to very large bonsai which can require two or more people to move, as in the case of the large bonsai olive.

Bonsai are displayed artistically in carefully chosen pots which suit the type of tree being grown, and the style of the bonsai. The aim is to create an illusion of age, so the appearance of a bonsai is of more importance than its actual age. This illusion of age is achieved by wiring of trunks and branches into more sinuous and gnarled shapes, exposing roots (nebari), and by other more pecialised techniques such as carving of trunks and major branches, and deliberately creating dead wood (jins) to give a more aged look.
The Japanese have developed many different styles of bonsai, but the most frequently used for single trees are formal upright, informal upright, slanting, semi-cascade and cascade.

There are many other styles, including group plantings, rock plantings, landscapes, and root over rock plantings. The Japanese approach to bonsai is fairly rigid, and many Australian bonsai growers stick closely to the rules used by Japanese bonsai growers. However, there has been a tendency in recent years to develop a more distinctively Australian approach, especially when growing Australian native plants as bonsai, which lend themselves to a more informal approach.

Bonsai growers use various approaches to creating bonsai, which can range from what is sometimes referred to as “clip and grow”, starting from small trees and pruning and shaping as the tree grows, to sometimes dramatic cutting back and shaping from older, more advanced trees from nursery stock, or trees dug from the wild. Permission for such digs needs to be obtained, whether on public or private land, and some areas, such as National Parks and Reference Areas, are strictly off limits at any time. Like most bonsai clubs, Bendigo Bonsai Club organises such digs.

The following notes give some basic guidelines for bonsai care, but it really comes down to a combination of art, in designing a bonsai, knowledge of bonsai training techniques, and of good basic horticultural practices needed to keep bonsai growing healthily.

GROWING CONDITIONS

Firstly, and most importantly, bonsai are not indoor plants.

It is nice to have a “tree of the day” on display inside, but most should not be inside for more than two or three days at a time, so rotate your indoor bonsai display. Low light levels and dryness quickly lead to lanky, weak growth, which will weaken the plant, and eventually kill it. There are plants, such as figs, which will tolerate being indoors for longer periods, but, on the whole, it is better to be sure than sorry. Bonsai need to be housed outside, ideally in a position which receives morning sun and afternoon shade, and where they will get the benefit of any rain. They should be placed on benches or stands which allow good air circulation. A shade house, or some other kind of shade structure, is beneficial for species which do not cope well with our hot summers, and may suffer from leaf burn.

Watering

Because bonsai pots are shallow, the soil mix dries out more quickly than in the deeper pots used for most other container plants, and roots can burn if the containers get too hot. When the weather is warm and dry, daily watering is desirable, and in very hot weather they need watering at least twice a day. This was a real problem for bonsai growers in Bendigo and surrounds, because of severe water restrictions during the long drought years, and most put in tanks to help keep their bonsai alive. Even though a hand held hose can now be used at any time, if tank water is available, use that rather than chemically treated tap water.The lifting of restrictions has made it easier to care for bonsai in summer, but extra care needs to be taken during heat waves. There are various ways of coping with summer heat, such as placing shallow water trays under larger bonsai pots, partly immersing small bonsai in damp sand, and covering pots with hessian or some other protection. Dunking (immersion of the pot in a container of water deep enough to cover the soil surface, until it stops bubbling) will also help get bonsai safely through heat waves. If the soil in the pot has dried out, the bonsai will feel light when picked up. Observe the difference in weight between a dry pot and a nicely saturated one, to be able to judge whether dunking is needed.

Frost

Frost can be a problem for some evergreen bonsai, such as figs, and rain forest plants such as Lilly Pillies and their relatives, especially in an inland climate like Bendigo’s, where subzero
temperatures are often experienced overnight in winter, and can be lethal to frost tender plants. Frost protection is advisable from late autumn to early spring for such bonsai.

Potting Mix

At some point after purchasing or starting off a bonsai, it will need to be repotted (see next section), and the question of a suitable potting mix will arise. Commercial bonsai potting mixes are available, but they tend to dry out too quickly in our summers, and this can lead to the loss of plants when temperatures are high and the humidity low.

Potting mixes for bonsai should be free draining, but also moisture retentive. The addition of some washed sand (free of silt and clay), some fine gravel, and a moisture retentive additive, such as peat moss or leaf mould, helps in retaining moisture longer. It is also a good idea to incorporate some slow release fertiliser in the mix (see section on fertilising for more on this.). Buying a good quality potting mix, and modifying it with these ingredients provides a satisfactory mix.

Repotting

The timing of repotting has to be geared to the needs of different types of plants, but, essentially, deciduous trees should be repotted in late winter – early spring while still dormant, and conifers and evergreens (including Australian native plants) may be repotted in either early to mid-autumn or mid to late spring (timed to avoid frosts), depending on the variety. Some native plants respond well to root and foliage pruning in early to mid-summer. Refer to bonsai books for more information, but keep in mind that you will need to adjust the timings by six months if the book was written for Northern Hemisphere readers.

Root pruning

This should be done at the time of repotting. This is probably the hardest bonsai technique for beginners to come to grips with, and yet is the essential basis for creation of a good bonsai. The concept is simple – keep the roots and top growth in balance, and encourage healthy feeder roots. When a plant is being repotted, the roots should be teased out, and cut back by about a third to a half. The remaining roots should then be spread out over new potting mix in the bottom of the pot, and then covered with more potting mix. For beginners, watching somebody else do it before doing it yourself is a good idea.

Fertilising

Bonsai need regular feeding to grow well and remain in good health. Slow release fertilisers should be incorporated in the potting mix when planting or repotting, and bonsai will also benefit from applications of dilute liquid fertiliser during the growing season. Regular applications of a seaweed extract such as Seasol help to keep leaves healthier, and less prone to burning by hot winds. Because plants differ quite widely in their nutritional needs, it is necessary to have, or to acquire, some basic horticultural knowledge of their requirements. For example, some Australian native plants such as Grevilleas and Banksias should never be given high phosphorus fertilisers, because they have evolved to efficiently extract the minimal phosphorus in Australian soils, and can literally die of an overdose.

Pruning and wiring

The techniques used to shape a bonsai involve pruning, and/or wiring of trunks and branches to allow bending them. Copper or aluminium wire is wound spirally around trunks and branches, and this allows them to be bent into shapes which improve the design of the bonsai. The wire is removed when the trunk and/or branches have set in the new position. It is very important that the wire be removed before the trunk or branch expands with growth, because the wire will cut in, and spiral grooves will be visible when it is finally removed. These scars can take a long time to heal and will detract from the appearance of the tree in the meantime. For larger bonsai, with thicker trunks and branches, there are some more elaborate, specialised bending techniques. These can be read about in books and bonsai magazines, but are best learnt by watching demonstrations, and taking part in bonsai workshops.

Compiled by Eric Wilkinson (Revised April 2012)